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Thread: what type of oil and how much

  1. #1
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    Default what type of oil and how much

    i have a 78 scout 2 with a 345 and was wondering what weight oil i should use and how much

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan View Post
    i have a 78 scout 2 with a 345 and was wondering what weight oil i should use and how much
    The original recommendation from the factory was straight 30 wt.

    Therefore, 10w30 or 5w30 would work just fine. The newer multi-grade oils "flow no worse than" the first number when cold or the second number when hot. 10w40 or 20w50 would probably work well also.

    On a freshly rebuilt engine, I would break it in with 30 wt for the first couple of oil changes, then start using synthetic 10w40 in the desert or 10w30 anywhere else.

    Capacity is 6 quarts. If you drive on the highway, add an extra quart, then make a scratch on the dipstick to show you where that put the full mark, per a factory recommendation for scouts. The reason for this was that the oiling systems in this engine are very high volume, and it's not an issue in a loadstar with a 10 quart oil pan, but really matters when you cut down the amount of oil to fit in a scout. You can actually run the pan dry at sustained high rpm.
    Last edited by Allan E.; 05-10-2009 at 10:17 AM.
    Allan E.
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    Old fashioned binder freak

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan E. View Post
    The original recommendation from the factory was straight 30 wt.

    Therefore, 10w30 or 5w30 would work just fine. The newer multi-grade oils "flow no worse than" the first number when cold or the second number when hot. 10w40 or 20w50 would probably work well also.

    On a freshly rebuilt engine, I would break it in with 30 wt for the first couple of oil changes, then start using synthetic 10w40 in the desert or 10w30 anywhere else.

    Capacity is 6 quarts. If you drive on the highway, add an extra quart, then make a scratch on the dipstick to show you where that put the full mark, per a factory recommendation for scouts. The reason for this was that the oiling systems in this engine are very high volume, and it's not an issue in a loadstar with a 10 quart oil pan, but really matters when you cut down the amount of oil to fit in a scout. You can actually run the pan dry at sustained high rpm.
    So, are you saying, if you drive at highway speeds, you should run 7 quarts?
    1973 Scout II
    345
    727
    Will Live Again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by florida View Post
    So, are you saying, if you drive at highway speeds, you should run 7 quarts?
    That's what the factory said. One quart past the "full" mark for sustained highway speeds.
    Allan E.
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    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

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    Wow, that is some good information.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan E. View Post
    That's what the factory said. One quart past the "full" mark for sustained highway speeds.
    So, if you have the 7qts in, and you end up driving around town a lot, is that a problem? It's just that I always thought too much oil could blow seals or something.
    1973 Scout II
    345
    727
    Will Live Again!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by florida View Post
    So, if you have the 7qts in, and you end up driving around town a lot, is that a problem? It's just that I always thought too much oil could blow seals or something.
    It can, but the factory says one quart over the full mark is okay. As long as you aren't frothing up the oil with the crankshaft, you're okay. You'll know if that happens when you look at the dipstick. The bubbles will make you think you've blown a head gasket, and then you'll wonder why you haven't overheated or lost any coolant.

    Even if you are a quart low, if your PCV valve or flame arrestor (the thing in the valve cover that everybody thinks is a PCV) is clogged, you're likely to blow a seal. Lucky for us, the first thing to go on an SV engine is usually the valve covers. Messy, but not catastrophic. Another clue is oi coming out the dipstick, also something that gets blown all over the engine.
    Allan E.
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    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan E. View Post
    It can, but the factory says one quart over the full mark is okay. As long as you aren't frothing up the oil with the crankshaft, you're okay. You'll know if that happens when you look at the dipstick. The bubbles will make you think you've blown a head gasket, and then you'll wonder why you haven't overheated or lost any coolant.

    Even if you are a quart low, if your PCV valve or flame arrestor (the thing in the valve cover that everybody thinks is a PCV) is clogged, you're likely to blow a seal. Lucky for us, the first thing to go on an SV engine is usually the valve covers. Messy, but not catastrophic. Another clue is oi coming out the dipstick, also something that gets blown all over the engine.
    Got it, thanks!
    1973 Scout II
    345
    727
    Will Live Again!

  9. #9
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    Default Oil

    Also On all "old" ie pre 83 motor I would recommend going with a zddp additive. It replaces the additives that were removed due to smog concerns. and that are required by old"er" non roller cam engines. There are VERY few specialty oil manufacturers that provide oils with the correct(for old motors) levels of of zinc diekyl phosphate(the PRIMARY anti-wear additive in the older oils)

  10. #10
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    A lot of guys run diesel oil in their gasoline IH engines (Delo, Rotella, etc.) This is due to the fact that the diesel rated oils do have enough ZDDP in them. Depending on where you live a 5-40 or a 15-40 seem to be the oil of choice. I run 15-40 SWEPCO 306 oil in my Scout. I live in Texas and we do not see many days below freezing. I bought the oil from IHOnlyNorth. Seems to work good, but when I run out, I'll prolly just go with Chevron Delo 15-40.

    Run 7 quarts. Before I knew to do that, I did almost run my pan dry, travelling on the interstate for 4 hours

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