Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: engine dying

  1. #1

    Default engine dying

    Ive got a 79 Scout II with a 304 the last week it has been stalling while going down the road. most of the time it starts right back up, sometimes it takes a few minutes of cranking. It runs fine in the driveway even if i put it in gear hold the brake and rev it, i cant reproduce the problem. Sometimes I can drive for an hour before it dies sometimes 30 seconds. Sometimes i can feel it die for a second but it turns right back on without me needing to do anything.

    Since it runs fine i dont think it is the timing but i checked it anyway, 6 before tdc. I thought fuel or electrical. I changed the fuel pump, filter. The carb is only a few months old, it is an edelbrock. That didnt help. I drove it till it died, got out and checked the carb and it had gas in it. So its not running out of gas.

    So next electrical. cap, rotor, wires and coil were replaced with the carb 2 months ago. I checked all my connections, i used a jumper wire from the battery to the distributor to bypass the ignition switch but it still died. so where does that leave me? the distributor? Sorry to be long winded but this thing is kickin my butt. Any thoughts?
    Last edited by kris; 05-12-2009 at 01:46 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    Two common things in a 79 scout that could cause this.

    1. Bad bulkhead connector. Pull it apart and rework the pins so they are tight. Common on scouts due to the age.
    2. Bad prestolite module in the distributor. I think the part number is 1483A, but you'll need to check to be sure. I am assuming a stock distributor.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  3. #3

    Default

    its not the bulkhead connector. The previous owner rewired the ignition with a GM column. so the wires just run through holes in the firewall. I checked all of those. But i also disconnected those and hooked a jumper wire directly from the battery to the distributor which should have taken that all out of the equation. so does that leave me with the distributor? I looked up the module online and it is about $250. Has anyone ever tried the DUI distributors like they sell on IH only?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kris View Post
    its not the bulkhead connector. The previous owner rewired the ignition with a GM column. so the wires just run through holes in the firewall. I checked all of those. But i also disconnected those and hooked a jumper wire directly from the battery to the distributor which should have taken that all out of the equation. so does that leave me with the distributor? I looked up the module online and it is about $250. Has anyone ever tried the DUI distributors like they sell on IH only?
    That module was 78 bucks last time I bought one. You could convert it to points and get an MSD for about 150, or get a whole distributor for less than 250. Where are you looking?
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  5. #5

    Default

    it was autozone and advance autos websites. All the scout website list aftermarket upgrade kits like pertronix or DUI.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    If they sell it at IH Only, it's a good product. Call and talk to them. They will give you straight talk, fair pricing, and great service.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  7. #7

    Default

    I pulled the distributor from the 345 i have in the garage. Did not make a difference. Got a mile up the street and it died,It would fire up then shut right back off. After 15 minutes it started up and drove home.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    There are still a few things you can check, then.

    1. Do you have a tach? If it dies while you're driving down the road and your tach is still turning (in gear, of course), you're out of gas, or you have a bad coil. Doesn't work with an automatic.

    2. Did you check to make sure the cap and rotor are good?

    3. How fresh are your plug wires.

    4. Are you sure you're getting gas when this happens, and I mean RIGHT when it happens? Pull the air cleaner and look.

    5. Is the coil new?
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  9. #9

    Default

    the cap,rotor,wires,plugs,coil, and carb were all changed at the same time a few months ago. It has a tach but does have an automatic.

    It only happens while going down the road so i cant know if it has gas at that moment. But twice when it died i was able to pull off into a parking lot. With out pumping the pedal or cranking on it, i open the hood took off the air cleaner and pulled the throttle and it sprayed gas.

    This thing is kickin my A$$ Im almost to the point of paying to get it fixed. Its summer the weather is nice and im ready to drive it.
    Last edited by kris; 05-13-2009 at 03:23 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    Think about this:

    If you're getting gas, then you're losing spark. Let's assume that's been the case all along.

    If you have decided that BOTH distributors have idential problems, well, okay, but otherwise, SOMETHING is taking away the POWER to your coil or your DISTRIBUTOR MODULE.

    A simple LED circuit in series with a 680 ohm resistor wired up to across the coil will tell you if it's still getting power when it quits. If the engine is turning, but not running, the LED will keep lighting up.

    If you tie it from (+) coil directly to ground instead of across the coil, it will tell you if you still are getting power to the coil/distributor.

    If you're getting that power, you MUST have a bad coil, bad module, or bad coil wire/cap/or rotor.

    I didn't ask if you have the right cap and rotor. No way I could tell if it's right from here.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •