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Thread: AC Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    South Park, Colorado
    Posts
    21

    Default AC Questions

    Looks like the AC compressor will need a new clutch. The original owner told me that it has been working up until recently when the clutch went out. I work at a parts store and for the life of me I can not find the clutches listed by application or in the York catalog(s). The York compressor in my truck seems to be the standard horizontal mount setup.

    Would this be the same clutch as used on various Jeeps, AMC's and GM's of the 70's and 80's with factory AC?

    Also, where is the sight glass located? Last but not least, the blower motor seems to be out for both the heat and AC, anyone have a wiring diagram?

    This is on a 1975 200 truck with a 345.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    14

    Default A/C

    The first thing I would check is for power to the clutch. If it is bad my local NAPA store looked it up in their book, but the clutch cost more than a rebuilt compressor. Would be cheaper to buy both at one time. That is the same compressor used on alot of semi trucks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    143

    Default

    Haven't a clue if it works on the other models as the clutch is dependent on belt placement. Searching through NAPA this is the model number for a new clutch; TEM273212

    What I would do is what ever book you happen to be looking at look for a clutch that accepts the 1/2" belt and one wire hook up and distance to groove is 2 5/8" and the clutch is 6" diameter.
    William (Bill)
    1978 Super Scout II
    SV 345, Holly 2300 2BBL, T19, Dana 300, SOA lift with 1.5" shackles, Dana 44s front and back with 3.73 gears, Detroit Locker in rear, 33x12.50 ProComp, On Board Air, Custom front and rear bumpers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    28

    Default ac

    Also since r12 is no longer available. What you need to look at is running .... shit I can't remember the solvent name. But a reputable ac/radiator shop would be able to tell you. Or I can find out if needed. but running a solvent backwards thru the system. the oils differ between r12 and r134. And if mixed the two can dissolve the linings of the rubber hoses. Causing chunks to break off and clog the system. So changing between the two requires a solvent flush of the the entire system to remove all of the r12 oils, and changing the hoses(they contain residual oil). Simply having a refrigerant swap will only work for a very short time.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Actually, R-12 is still available but expensive and maybe hard to find. If only the clutch is bad, it might be better to buy a whole unit and just use the new clutch on the old compressor so the rest of the system doesn't need opening up.
    Different hose linings are used on gauge sets for 134a, and tube systems on cars use different "O" ring material because of the different solubility characteristics of the refrigerant itself, so it might be best to change the hoses if the system needs to be converted. I haven't kept up too well on this so am not sure.

    BTW, a mix of R-12 and R-134a has a pressure much greater than either alone; the curve of pressure vs percent looks like a small hill.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    208

    Default

    You can find CFC-12 at most older AC shops but the only catch is that it can't be imported into the US anymore nor can it be manufactured so it will be pricey as hell. A better solution is to flush the system in your back yard and buy the conversion kit to go to HFC-134a from walmart for 20 bones and theres no need to swap hoses since you already flushed...just don't let the EPA know you vented the CFC-12 into the air. The whole process takes a bout 4 hours or so once you figure out what your doing. A better idea is to take it over to your local school auto shop and let them use the AC as a project real quick...don't spend any money and you don't kill the atmospere, everyone wins.
    '71 Basterd Scout 2
    with a 258 from a '73 CJ5
    Intake manifold with NHRA markings....go figure

    "Its (scout) four-wheel-drive capabilities are equal to anything this side of full tracks"

    David H. Petraeus for President 2012

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default ac question fittings

    My scout used to have ac, the lines are there. The compressor and the vent bar under the dash were removed. I would like to get it going again since its nearly 100 degrees and almost 100% humidity in Houston. It kind of like try to breathe underwater in a hot tub. I had the AC vent bar and controls sent to me. I have never had any luck getting AC to work with out hiring a shop but I would love your input. I can put the parts in and have a shop evacuate and load the 134a. Should I be looking for a tube o lock or roto? I can get a compressor and clutch together for ten bucks that would have to be rebuilt or traded on core. What do you think?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern Indiana
    Posts
    22

    Default AC

    Anyone that wants to get the old AC running in their Scout or pickup should seriously consider losing the York compressor and going with a Sanden or one of the Sanden 'clones'. You can pick up an adaptor plate on Ebay that adapts the Sanden type compressor to the York mounting bracket; the Sanden is much quieter, smoother running, and just all in all a much better compressor. The one in my 79 Scout II was a 'junkyard pull' from an 85 Dodge D-50 pickup; it had the original hoses cut off, so I was able to carefully finish cutting the hoses off of the fittings and found they were the right size for the original Scout AC hoses. Lots of elbow grease working them on and a hose clamp apiece over the barb part of the fitting, and it was in. I haven't touched the AC in that truck for three years; it was in the barn fire in my shop almost two years ago, very little but smoke and some minor heat damage to the truck, but I fired it up the other day and it still blows cold!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default what parts to buy

    After pricing out some of the needed parts I am wondering if this kit would be worth buying.

    http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air...system-451.php


    What do you guys think? Keep in mind I have open hoses which are probably original and have been open andsubject to debris in them for an unknown number of years. What parts do you expect to be useless? Is it likely the old evaporator or condensor would still work? Just in the "Thinking about it" stage.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default Sanden 709

    Quote Originally Posted by scoutmonster View Post
    Anyone that wants to get the old AC running in their Scout or pickup should seriously consider losing the York compressor and going with a Sanden or one of the Sanden 'clones'. You can pick up an adaptor plate on Ebay that adapts the Sanden type compressor to the York mounting bracket; the Sanden is much quieter, smoother running, and just all in all a much better compressor. The one in my 79 Scout II was a 'junkyard pull' from an 85 Dodge D-50 pickup; it had the original hoses cut off, so I was able to carefully finish cutting the hoses off of the fittings and found they were the right size for the original Scout AC hoses. Lots of elbow grease working them on and a hose clamp apiece over the barb part of the fitting, and it was in. I haven't touched the AC in that truck for three years; it was in the barn fire in my shop almost two years ago, very little but smoke and some minor heat damage to the truck, but I fired it up the other day and it still blows cold!
    I just ordered a Sanden 709 clone and ana adaptor plate. To get the ac running again did you have to replace the dryer or expansion valve? I can't find on that states it works on the scout.

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