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Thread: Scout II 345 V8 wont start

  1. #1

    Default Scout II 345 V8 wont start

    Have the 345 V8, engine turns and cranks great but will not fire up. What should I try and do next. Looked in the carb and I am seeing gas coming in. Started and ran in the morning?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Have you checked for spark?
    Start by checking for spark at the end of a sparkplug wire (with no plug attached), if you have the spark there move on to the next in line.
    Check again with a plug attached and see if you get a spark that way.
    If either of the tests fail, work back further and see if your coil is recieving power. Is your dizzy electronic or points style?
    '71 Basterd Scout 2
    with a 258 from a '73 CJ5
    Intake manifold with NHRA markings....go figure

    "Its (scout) four-wheel-drive capabilities are equal to anything this side of full tracks"

    David H. Petraeus for President 2012

  3. #3

    Default

    I checked the spark on the wire & the plug and did not see anything. How do I check the coil (its a spitfire coil)?

    Appreciate your help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

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    It helps to know what year it is. How to check to see "why" there is no spark depends on how it's generated, which changed over the years. After 74, everything was electronic. Need to be specific.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  5. #5

    Default

    Its a 1977 Scout II.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

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    77 is a transition year. Early models had a gold box located on the firewall. Chances are you need a new one. The first thing to test is whether you have (+) voltage at the coil.

    Instead of points, you would find an electronic pickup module inside the distributor. The gap should be .008 for this, and you have to use a brass feeler gauge. Chances are this is not the problem.

    Late 77 models had an internal module made by prestolite. Wires from the module went to (+) and (-) on the coil, and power was fed directly to the (+) side, also at the coil.

    It is very important to note that you MUST have a primary resistance on the coil of at least 1.5 ohms or you will burn up either of these modules. The stock module meets this spec. Many aftermarket coils, especially the "high output" coils, do not. Don't even start troubleshooting until you have verified this.

    The first functional check is to see if you have power at the coil when you turn the key on and during cranking. Get a friend to help you with this while you hold the volt meter. You do not want to leave the key on, especially with the Holley Gold Box.

    The second step is to use a DWELL meter to see if you are getting a signal to the coil. It doesn't matter what the DWELL is. It just matters that you have one. It will not be the same as on a points ignition, because it's a shaped pulse from the module.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I have the same issue. I replaced the coil with no improvement. Its also a 345. 9 with a prestolite type dizzy. The cap wasn't really locked on like i would like to see. Does any one know where I can get just the clips that secure the cap to the dizzy? The + on the coil is hooked to constant power and the negative goes in the dizzy. I drove all over Texas a week ago and today I get issues. I finally got it to try to idle but sounds like the timing is real rough. Sorry to hijak the thread but I thought this was related.

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