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Thread: Wiper replacement motors

  1. #1

    Talking Wiper replacement motors

    So I'm almost done rewiring my '69 800 and I was wondering if anyone else had replaced their vacuum-powered wiper motors with electric ones, and if they did what kind work (possible junkyard?) and where to get them (if not). Also, ne1 know where to get a modern replacement radio??? And 1 more question. Who knows anything about a brake pressure warning switch? I've got a wire coming from the brake line junction but its cut and I dont know if I need it or what i should do with it. Any help would thrill my socks off...
    Last edited by flanaganster; 06-15-2009 at 05:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    110

    Default

    I don't know if searching on this site will turn up much yet, so...
    The brake light on the 800 signals (lights) when one half of the 2-part system looses pressure, so is useful. The switch screws into the brass block which should be to the side of the Master Cylinder and to which the two output brake tubes lead. The switch has one terminal for the 'power' wire which it grounds when closed (its pin extended).
    I still have and like the vacuum wipers so can't help there. Do yours still work at all? They required a vacuum pump as part of the fuel pump.
    Can't help about radios either; we only have one good FM station around here and only 'talk' programs on AM.

  3. #3

    Default brake pressure switch

    thanks for the post! so I have the brake pressure switch and the wire leading from it (just 1). I am rewiring and I want to hook up the warning light on the dash, but I'm not sure how to proceed. what does my single wire need to connect to and how does that hook up to the warning light? Also, in the future I might go back to mechanical fuel pump, but for now i have an electric in line deal. Thanks for the help!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    110

    Default

    There should be a detailed wiring diagram in the manual, but mine is put away.
    Power should go to one side of the light, the other (ground) wire then running to the switch. The brass block has a shuttle piston which is centered if both brake circuits are equal pressure, but moves to one side if one side is much greater. When the shuttle piston is off center,the switch pin can extend so the switch closes and grounds the light. The switch screws 'lightly' into the brass block.
    It's been recommended that the switch be removed when working on the brakes, as when bleeding one side, to protect the switch pin from being damaged when the shuttle tries to recenter itself. I don't know if it's really needed, but it can't hurt.

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