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Thread: Fueling problem and fuel line Q?

  1. #1

    Question Fueling problem and fuel line Q?

    OK, so I am deciding to finish the electric fuel pump that the previous owner put in the ScoutII but I first need to drop the tank and take a look at what I am looking at. He states that no fuel is able to move from the tank, when dropping the tank skid plate and hitting the tank it sounds empty. He has cut the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump and due to this the mechanical pump lines are clogged with mud nests. So I was thinking of dropping the tank, take my air hose and test for leaks, look inside the tank and look for clogs... If I find that the line is busted somewhere my question is, what -an size is the fuel line?? And from my "story" any expert advice is greatly appreciated as I am a self taught but not ignorant mechanic...(I know when to ask for advice ) ANY advice is welcome, I was already told by, I think okkool, and Allan some good advice on how to run the pump properly, just looking for some things I should also take care of or watch for...


    Sorry about the long paragraph, THANKS guys!!

    AJ

  2. #2
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    Mar 2009
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    Las Vegas
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    I'm not sure if you're wanting to keep your lines the stock dia. but when I had to re-route/run new fuel line I spent my few bucks and bought some of the 3/8" ID fuel line from Napa. Ran it off the tank to my fuel pump and just cut out all of the old shit that was cracking on me. If your tank is all gunked up you could always install a 22 gal fuel cell for a couple hundred bones.
    '71 Basterd Scout 2
    with a 258 from a '73 CJ5
    Intake manifold with NHRA markings....go figure

    "Its (scout) four-wheel-drive capabilities are equal to anything this side of full tracks"

    David H. Petraeus for President 2012

  3. #3

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    Thanks again Kool! I may go with 3/8" ID. I dropped the tank today, did they put enough lines for venting?! All those lines that run up into that plastic piece behind that acess panel, what is the function of that?
    ? The tank looks good inside so I will save the money for the floor and some braces I need to replace! I took some pics but will need to post them later as I left the camera at home

  4. #4
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    Feb 2009
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    Interior Alaska
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    That access panel is to the evaporative canister. If you are in an emissions area, you have to leave it there and connected. They look for that thing and can make you replace it if it isn't there or not connected (not fun). If you are not in an emissions area, or exempt, you can bypass it without worry. Just plug all the vent lines with exception of the one next to the fill tube and you'll be fine. The PO did it to my '74 and I've been running it that way since I bought it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by baldscout; 06-26-2009 at 06:07 AM. Reason: Added diagram

  5. #5

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    baldscout, thanks for the diagram!!

    I really need to get a hold of the books for this project, that one pic would have saved me from drawing my own rudimentary diagram What are the numbers I should be getting? I see a manual part number SP10474 and parts catalog MT-130?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Interior Alaska
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
    baldscout, thanks for the diagram!!

    I really need to get a hold of the books for this project, that one pic would have saved me from drawing my own rudimentary diagram What are the numbers I should be getting? I see a manual part number SP10474 and parts catalog MT-130?
    Sorry, can't help you with part numbers. My repair manual isn't where I have internet access, so I can't reference. Best bet may be to search one of the online part houses and see what kind of numbers you come up with. Also check with SSS or any of the other light line dealers. They may have NOS or reman's.

  7. #7

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    I think I was not clear, and it's my fault, I meant numbers on what the books are not the actual parts. What books should I be ordering for my 74 Scout II

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
    I think I was not clear, and it's my fault, I meant numbers on what the books are not the actual parts. What books should I be ordering for my 74 Scout II
    The factory service manual for sure, and the parts manual if you can. They really are worth the price. One of the nice things about the parts manual is that quite often there is a cross listing for the IH part number. Sometimes not, but when you need to describe some "thingy" to the clown behind the counter, a picture is awesome. This is especially true in brakes, switches, connectors, and other generic parts.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    TX
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    Here are some issues I have had in the past when running fuel lines (for my electric fuel pumps).

    1) Heat: Keep the fuel lines as far away from the exhaust as possible. (I used heat wrap in places I didn't have a choice. Vapor lock is no fun.

    2) Fuel pump below the fuel tank: Electric fuel pumps need be mounted below the tank in order to create a siphon. Electric fuel pumps "push" fuel very well but they don't "suck" fuel very well. that's why they need to be below the tank.
    Stoner
    66 Scout 800 (RH Steer)
    Chrysler 360/727 with 203/205 Doubler
    Dana44/60 with H1 Tires/Rims

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Little Rock
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    I did mine a while back with 3/8 line from Auto Zone. An electric pump that pushes 4.5 psi was plenty. I ordered a replacement poly tank from Summit, set me back about $160. I think i spent about $225 on the whole fuel system replacement. You do have to keep the lines amay from heat for sure, and using the old lines is kinda risky...those hard plastic lines get pretty brittle after a couple years.

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