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Thread: Ford remote starter relay wiring ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Vista Ca.
    Posts
    28

    Default Ford remote starter relay wiring ?

    Doing a complete rewire on a 73 SII for a friend, original wiring is gone.I'm adding a remote start relay on the firewall and I'm not sure how to wire the " I " fitting from relay to coil ??? Straight shot to " + " or to " - " on coil ? What gauge wire is needed ? From what I've read on internet this fitting sends full battery power to coil while cranking only ? Some sites call this wire " ballast resistor bypass to the coil ", do I need to run a ballast in-line? Or a special gauge depending on length? Is it dead when not cranking ?? Do any wires from fuse block go to " I " on remote relay?

    Also have options for " S " on remote relay to starter - run a wire to "S " on starter OR jump a wire " Bat " to " S " on original starter solenoid. Any ideas which would be better???

    Thanks, Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Milford Nebraska
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I don't know why you would want a remote relay, powering a relay? (in essence the starter solenoid has a relay built into it). The "I" terminal goes to the + side of the coil, 16 ga wire is big enough, it only carries a few amps. If using a points distributor, I would run a ballast resistor, it will reduce the voltage to the coil, and allow your points to last longer. some coils are available with a resister "built in" and don't require an outside resister. still wired the same way "-" terminal to points "+" to ignition power(and"I" terminal). If using a remote relay, wire a jumper from the starter battery cable to the "S" terminal on the starter. The key "CRANK" wire will now go to the "S" terminal of the remote relay.IGN SCHEMATIC.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Vista Ca.
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Thanks nice drawing. I'm assuming power from " I " to coil is off in run mode??? Coil is then powered from key on ?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    The I terminal is just for cranking. The standard hookup takes the R terminal on the starter to the coil. The "reasons" to do this modification are many: 1. You can put the main wiring feed from the alternator to the battery cable up where it can be reached, and the same with the feed to the dash. 2. The stock ignition wire is barely adequate to energize the starter solenoid, but the remote solenoid draws far less current. This setup creates better power to the S terminal on the starter. 3. When you have to work on the starter, you can test it without crawling under the vehicle. 4. If you have a manual transmission, you can remove a defective starter and still push start the vehicle to go to the parts store because you have moved all the important connections to the remote solenoid. 5. If your starter starts to bind and will not release when you release the key, this fixes the problem. The design flaw in the GM setup is that if the solenoid sticks, power does not get released, and it keeps cranking. By stopping the cranking, the flywheel can throw off the starter. I have had starters with this problem last more than 10 years without me having to rebuild them.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

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