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Thread: How to improve handling on a 72 Scout II

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    18

    Default How to improve handling on a 72 Scout II

    My 72 has had a few mods, cross bracing between steering box frame, urethane body bushings, front stabilizer and new shocks. I lowered my tire pressure down to 28 psig. These things have helped out but it still gets squirley at the higher speeds. I was wondering if the rear sway bar kit would help any and if my springs were contributing to any of this. The leafs in the front are slightly sliding apart and the back springs are sagging a bit. What is the best means to raise the rear body an inch or so? Has anyone adjusted the worm gear in the stearing box?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default rag joint steering coupler

    Quote Originally Posted by waycool View Post
    My 72 has had a few mods, cross bracing between steering box frame, urethane body bushings, front stabilizer and new shocks. I lowered my tire pressure down to 28 psig. These things have helped out but it still gets squirley at the higher speeds. I was wondering if the rear sway bar kit would help any and if my springs were contributing to any of this. The leafs in the front are slightly sliding apart and the back springs are sagging a bit. What is the best means to raise the rear body an inch or so? Has anyone adjusted the worm gear in the stearing box?

    Have you replaced the rag joint or steering coupler? Made a huge difference for me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

    Default

    Definitely check the rag joint/steering coupler. It's about 100.00 brand new, but better to have a new one that an old one that'll give out on you on the interstate and you have no way of controlling the steering anymore.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Paso Robles, Ca
    Posts
    63

    Default

    waycool,

    I have been working on my steering for just this reason as well. I tried adjusting/tightening the worm gear by the manual but it did not work so well. I ended up putting it back in and tightened it little by little to clean up the steering. I could not find a spanner wrench in my area so I had to wing it with a 90o angle screwdriver and time..
    I have it pretty tight now,.. just not perfect but I am leaving it be...
    Good luck,
    Rob

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    95

    Default Steering coupler rag joint

    Quote Originally Posted by lindstromjd View Post
    Definitely check the rag joint/steering coupler. It's about 100.00 brand new, but better to have a new one that an old one that'll give out on you on the interstate and you have no way of controlling the steering anymore.

    Don't try to rebuild it. The store all sell replacment disks but you would need a hydraulic press to do it. I paid 35 for a unit at advanced auto. It was luck though. It wasn't in the computer and some just said I know I have seen one of those before and disapeared looking for it and that was the third store I tried. Good luck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jtl1100 View Post
    Don't try to rebuild it. The store all sell replacment disks but you would need a hydraulic press to do it. I paid 35 for a unit at advanced auto. It was luck though. It wasn't in the computer and some just said I know I have seen one of those before and disapeared looking for it and that was the third store I tried. Good luck.
    Actually, I didn't need a press when I replaced my rag joint. Just some set screws on either end and it comes right off. I'm still thinking of upgrading it to the straight universal joint instead of the rag joint though.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Anyone know how to tell if you have the 3/4 (30 spline) vs 13/16th (36 spline) without opening the hood? I don't have a micrometer and don't want to take it apart to find the splines. I hope there is a way to idenitfy it by model/year.

    Thanks!
    6/16/2009 - Bought my 1980 Traveler (345A)!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scorp1us View Post
    Anyone know how to tell if you have the 3/4 (30 spline) vs 13/16th (36 spline) without opening the hood? I don't have a micrometer and don't want to take it apart to find the splines. I hope there is a way to idenitfy it by model/year.

    Thanks!
    Depends on the year. I think* the cutoff year was 75. I can't say which is which because I'll probably get it wrong, but I know Super Scout Specialists would know, and Allen E. will definitely know.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    I bought a kit from John Fleck at Back Country Binders that eliminates the rag joint for one of the scouts. I forget the cut off year, but the 72 is way before it. On a vehicle this old, you can't take the chance that it's still the same setup. You don't need a micrometer to measure it. Last time I looked, D and C had a cheater way using a box end wrench on their website, but it's been a few years.

    I found a replacement rag at one of the auto parts stores for about 7 bucks. It fits a jeep or some such thing. It all comes apart, not too hard to change.

    Mike Eppinger at the Scout Ranch makes a caster corrector setup for scouts, but I don't think it works on the 72 due to the closed knuckle. The first thing I would do before any work on a front axle on a 72 is find one from a 75 or later. Open knuckles, discs, upgrade master cylinder to match the discs, new proportioning valve. The problem often changes. At that point, the caster correctors seem to be a good bet.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    6

    Default PS Gear Input Shaft Diameter

    I do not have any solutions that do not involve opening the hood , but I do know the wrench trick.

    Pull the coupling off the input shaft, try to put an 11/16 box wrench or socket over the input stub shaft.

    If the 11/16 goes over, it is a 3/4, 30 spline shaft. If the wrench does not fit, it is a 13/16.

    I have heard a variety of year cut-offs for the change, but some sources suggest pre 78 13/16 and 78 - 80 3/4 and that seems to match what I have found on trucks. DO NOT SPEND YOUR MONEY BASED ON THIS ADVICE.

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