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Thread: power brakes for a scout 80

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Default power brakes for a scout 80

    I have a 1964 scout 80. I have performed and disc brake conversion on the front axle and want to add power brakes. Any one have any advise on boosters
    or master cylinders. Will hydro boost work or mount with the 152 cid motor?

  2. #2
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    Jun 2009
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    Hurlburt Field, FL
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    I do know that a hydro-boost hooks right up to your old mounting bolts as long as you didn't have any power brakes to begin with; you just have to drill out the nuts because they come with studs in them and don't hook up the same way. I have a h-b from a 1980 chevy scottsdale in mine, and mine is a diesel, so it's not like I'm running a lot of extra power to the steering pump the way a v-8 would. I did have to shorten the plunger rod though, but it's not hard. Just takes a little time and effort and a good welder.
    Last edited by lindstromjd; 08-23-2009 at 01:04 PM.

  3. #3
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    Feb 2009
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    The scout 80 came with a single chamber master cylinder. In order to make discs work, you have to convert to a dual chamber master cylinder that is set up for front discs and whatever you have for the rear, drum or disc.

    No idea what lines up to what you already have. Need more information on what is currently installed. Stock MC won't work.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
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  4. #4
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    Aug 2009
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    I have installed 13 inch rotors with chevy single piston calipers, The real problem that I am having is not finding a master cylinder. The tech guys at willwood brakes are telling me that in order for me to not have a power booster I need to make my pedal ratio higher. So I need to add a booster or make my pedal ratio larger.

  5. #5

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    Get a new booster with the master cylinder that goes with it. I used a 72 skylark booster and master for our 800 build. The booster is pretty small which is why we used it. Also need correct proportioning valve.



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    Last edited by NEIH; 08-29-2009 at 03:53 PM.

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    Parts and Fabrication for International Harvesters.

  6. #6
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    Aug 2009
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    Is there any kind or brackets or fabrication I need to do to install that booster, and will an adjustable proportioning valve work?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by clutch11 View Post
    Is there any kind or brackets or fabrication I need to do to install that booster, and will an adjustable proportioning valve work?
    Yes to both. You will probably need the proportioning valve to cut down on flow to the rear brakes. In fact, I suggest you set the fronts with the proportioning valve all the way closed, then open it up slightly until you were getting rear brake action as well.

    It is unlikely you will find a booster/master setup that uses the holes you have. I don't see this as a major issue. You have to clear the clutch slave and the steering column anyway, and if you fabricate a bracket, you can also compensate for a longer actuator rod length, and at the same time, you can position the whole thing so that it lines up with your pedal clevis. Not a bad way to go, actually.

    Fabricating would be pretty simple. Piece of metal with holes in it for the actuator rod and the mounting studs, line it up as an assemply, mark it. Once you have it aligned, you can simply tack the bracket in place.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  8. #8

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    We machined a spacer and bolt for the clevis and pedal as we had to offset everything to avoid hitting the steering column. I can post pics if that will give you a better idea.

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  9. #9
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    Aug 2009
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    The pics would be great if its not too much of a hassle for ya, thanks for all the info guys

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