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Thread: 345 rear main help!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009

    Default 345 rear main help!!

    I have a 1977 international scout 2 with a 345 v8. Heres the story bought the scout from out in cali it got here and after warm-up it had about 2 psi of oil pressure. So I'n gone through everything due to coneing of the cylinders I've bored it out .30 over gone with an isky camshaft. cut and crowned the valve guides to accept unbrella seals off a BBC 2 angle valve job. Burned and blasted everything and repainted everything. Went reinstall the rotating assembly and tried to put the rear main on and couldn't get it over the end of the crankshaft and tore it. I'm looking for some tips from some expeirenced scout ppl any help is appreciated thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Aiken, SC


    Not much magic with the rear main seal. The new one comes with a couple of rubber plugs that push up inside the block next to the end cap. welding rod is about the easiest way to push them in. There is a speedi-sleeve for the crank if you need it. The seal is supposed to go in dry, but I have found that a tiny amount of grease really helps. You just have to massage it in. Some light tapping with a rubber mallet using a block of wood to spread the force helps sometimes.

    Generally speaking, the low oil pressure after warmup is caused by worn cam bearings. The stock valve seals are better because they allow a tiny drop of oil through. That's the puff of smoke you get on startup. It contributes greatly to the life of the engine. The valve springs allow you a 3700 rpm continuous duty rating. If you get too radical on the cam, you need to upgrade the valve springs to chevy LS6 style to keep from floating. This really is a low rpm engine, and increasing the lift and duration is not to your benefit unless you open up the exhaust ports and rig it for higher rpm use.
    Last edited by Allan E.; 09-01-2009 at 07:17 AM.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  3. #3


    When I rebuilt my 392 I put the rear seal on the crank then lowered them into the block as an assembly. Much easier than trying to hammer it in with the crank in the block.


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