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Thread: Scout II won't hold a charge

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    dallas tx.
    Posts
    2

    Unhappy Scout II won't hold a charge

    I have a 1974 scout II with the 392 engine it. Bought it highly modified about a year ago, and am an amateur enthusiast. I installed the DUI distributor for this engine and it has a new alternator that works, just tested it. The scout will not charge, it will run as long as the battery life lasts, but will not recharge. It appears that there is a major electrical drain. I currently have no wires hooked up to the voltage regulator on the alternator. Am I supposed to? Any ideas on where I would find the leak?
    Thanks,
    Nathanael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
    Posts
    283

    Default

    H mm check all the wiring of the distributor, and the Alternator against correct diagrams online. If it worked before you replaced the Distrib.. I would head in that direction.

    Sorry i couldn't help more
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arvada CO
    Posts
    3

    Default

    The regulator is what changes the ac voltage the alternator produces into dc voltage. It also prevents the alternating (negative) current from pulling power out of the battery and draining it. When an alternator fails, this is the part that goes bad. It is just cheaper these days to replace the whole unit as aposed to replacing the regulator. I would look at the diagrams and hook the regulator up.
    Thanks
    Brandon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    If the battery is going dead all by itself in 5 or 6 hours, your alternator probably has a shorted diode pack.

    If the voltage output from the alternator is below 13.6 at 1500 rpms, your regulator is probably bad. You can test this by shorting terminal 2 on the 2 prong alternator plug to the fat wire coming out the back of the alternator.

    Start with a charged battery and make the test You will know in a hurry. Here's the easy way:

    1. disconnect the fat wire from the back of the alternator.
    2. Start the engine. Check the voltage on the battery. It should be about 12.6 VDC. That means fully charged, but not charging.
    3. Shut off the engine.
    4. Hook up the fat wire on the back of the alternator. Start the engine. Measure again.

    If the voltage goes UP, the alternator is creating a charge.
    If the voltage stays the same, it's not charging. Do the pin 2 to fat wire test and see if the output goes up. You can measure it at the fat wire, look at the ammeter, or check the battery.

    5. Get back to us.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    dallas tx.
    Posts
    2

    Default A place to start

    Thanks for the info guys. Now I have an idea of where to start this process. I will check out the suggestions this morning. Thanks again so much. This is really helpful.
    N

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