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Thread: removing front rotors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default removing front rotors

    Hi all, I have a 77 Int Scout and I'm trying to remove one of the front rotors. Before I break something I want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. I loosened the studs and the rotor is loose, however the steel plate in front of it won't budge. Do I have to remove the automatic hub to get that plate off, or is it just rusted on really well? Thanks for any help.

    Mitch

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default

    After taking it apart and doing some more searching, I see that you do have to take the hub off to remove the rotor. I'm now to the lock ring and spindle nut, but don't have the tools, so it will have to wait till tomorrow. Any advice on the hub removal?

    Mitch

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Interior Alaska
    Posts
    227

    Default

    Get the proper size socket, I believe it's a 2-3/32", but a 2-1/16" will be close (do a search here and at binder planet for the exact size, I know it was posted on here elsewhere). There was a posting about doing brakes in the Tech section about a month or so back.

    Pull the nut, bearings, hub, etc... You'll have the hub with the rotor held in place by the studs. Press them out, pull the rotor, put new one on, press studs back in. Change out the oil seal as appropriate & regrease the bearings before reassembly. You'll be putting the nut back on (I don't remember the torque off hand) with the large socket, but if you have the manual, it's in there.

    HTH

    Bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Little Rock
    Posts
    40

    Default

    All you need to get that lock ring off is an allen wrench and some machine screws that will fit the holes. Take out the 3 set screws and put in the machine screws to turn it out. There is a keyed washer with holes all threw it that sits behind the lockring, pull it off. Use the socket to get the main nut off, or a screwdriver and hammer to tap it out. There is another keyway washer behind that, then your bearings. If you need to replace them, use Temken's. They carry them at AutoZone. When thats all off, tap out the studs. The grease seal and the bearing journels will come out easily with a screwdriver and hammer, but be gentle and take your time. I soak my hubs in gas inside a coffee can for about 15 minutes each then spray clean with break cleaner. Let them sit in the sun for about 20 minutes to dry. Use disc brake type grease (if you have disc brakes, which you should). I use Premium Synthetic Coastal with a 500 degree dropping point. Thats prolly much higher than needed, but I like peice of mind. Check your spindles for corrision and pitting. Clean them real good and coat with a light film of grease, the same used on the bearings. When you pack your autolocks, dont put a ton of grease in them but just enough for lubrication. Too much may casue them not to engage. When I re-assemble I use Permatex oil/water/grease resistant gasket maker. We call it gorrila snot. Good luck.

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