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Thread: 1980 diesel scout questions

  1. #1

    Default 1980 diesel scout questions

    Hello, I recently bought this 80 scout with 132,000 miles on it, Runs good, love to drive it, but want to fix some issues it and hoping someone with some scout experience could answer some questions: The throw out bearing is noisy, as I understand it I probably need to get it and the whole clutch kit replaced at the same time. This is the most expensive repair. Don't know if its bad for the car, but it's pretty loud and might be nice to quiet down some.

    In fact, quieting down is the goal in general. the engine is not loud, but the exhaust is. It appears to have an oversized exhaust on it. By looking at some photos online, don't think others had this. Does this sound like someone added on after market to make it louder? If so, can anyone suggest a quieter exhaust/ muffler that works well with this model?

    The doors sag a bit making closing them an adventure (they have also flown open when hitting a bump while driving over a bump haha). I understand this is the bushings? Some type of fitting beneath the hinges that needs to be replaced?

    The scout rides quiet rough, should I look at the shocks? They seem extended still and not collapsed which is one thing I was told to look at. Problem is I'm not sure if its just the way the car rides or something like the shocks that needs maintenance. Logic tells me its a 4x 4 and if you cant drive over railroad tracks without practically being ejected from the driver seat how could you go mudding?

    Other two issues are the steering and exhaust fumes. The steering has some play, can this be adjusted? And the fumes are sometimes pretty bad, it seems the fumes are probably circulating from the rear? the back hatch doesn't fit well, so maybe that's where they come in? I've tried driving with windows up and still smelled them, so seems that it would be from engine are through the floor, a couple small holes near pedals, or through the gaps between the seal and rear hatch?

    The body is in ok shape, but where it was lifted the front floor pans are rusted out, and was reinforced with license plates (used like washers between the bolts). Are the floor pans and rocker panels expensive to replace? The door and fenders front and back are fine.

    Thanks for any advice on these matters!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    eastern washington state
    Posts
    427

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    fix the exhaust first fumes are bad it might kill you then work on the clutch . the reason the doors pop open is probaly the door sills are rusted along with the foor pans. it could be the bushings they are underneath between thebody and the frame they look like hockey pucks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff.hunt View Post
    Hello, I recently bought this 80 scout with 132,000 miles on it, Runs good, love to drive it, but want to fix some issues it and hoping someone with some scout experience could answer some questions: The throw out bearing is noisy, as I understand it I probably need to get it and the whole clutch kit replaced at the same time. This is the most expensive repair. Don't know if its bad for the car, but it's pretty loud and might be nice to quiet down some.

    In fact, quieting down is the goal in general. the engine is not loud, but the exhaust is. It appears to have an oversized exhaust on it. By looking at some photos online, don't think others had this. Does this sound like someone added on after market to make it louder? If so, can anyone suggest a quieter exhaust/ muffler that works well with this model?

    The doors sag a bit making closing them an adventure (they have also flown open when hitting a bump while driving over a bump haha). I understand this is the bushings? Some type of fitting beneath the hinges that needs to be replaced?

    The scout rides quiet rough, should I look at the shocks? They seem extended still and not collapsed which is one thing I was told to look at. Problem is I'm not sure if its just the way the car rides or something like the shocks that needs maintenance. Logic tells me its a 4x 4 and if you cant drive over railroad tracks without practically being ejected from the driver seat how could you go mudding?

    Other two issues are the steering and exhaust fumes. The steering has some play, can this be adjusted? And the fumes are sometimes pretty bad, it seems the fumes are probably circulating from the rear? the back hatch doesn't fit well, so maybe that's where they come in? I've tried driving with windows up and still smelled them, so seems that it would be from engine are through the floor, a couple small holes near pedals, or through the gaps between the seal and rear hatch?

    The body is in ok shape, but where it was lifted the front floor pans are rusted out, and was reinforced with license plates (used like washers between the bolts). Are the floor pans and rocker panels expensive to replace? The door and fenders front and back are fine.

    Thanks for any advice on these matters!
    If your exhaust is loud, then someone definitely added an aftermarket exhaust. My original exhaust was so quiet you could barely hear it standing right next to it. For a quieter exhaust, you can go with any muffler that's not a "hot rod" muffler designed to be loud. If you're smelling fumes, they probably did a bad job of sealing it up. Check for holes in the pipe, and make sure the exhaust donut gasket from the turbo downpipe is still good.

    Your doors are sagging because of your front floor pan supports being rusted out and the P.O. using license plates as spacers. It's not expensive to fix this, maybe 50.00 a side. Just find a good way to lift up the front end of the truck when you weld in the new parts. The front is the part of the body that sags, so make it match the back and then go about a half inch higher to allow for the body to settle back in once you've let it back down. I found that if you take off the windshield frame, an engine hoist works quite well by hooking it to the transmission cover opening.

    Your suspension shouldn't really be too rough if it's not been lifted. If it's worn out you'd be feeling more of a spongy response from it.

    Your steering can be tightened up using either a new rag joint or universal joint (which is an upgrade from the rag joint style). This is the part that attaches the steering box to the steering column. Otherwise, there is a support you can weld in called a "straight steer" available from places like Super Scouts. It reinforces the frame in the case of wear and tear weakening it. Power steering puts a huge strain on the frame, and rag joints wear out over time. Better to replace them before they need to be rather than have them fail when you're out driving.

  4. #4

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    thx for the replies. Yes, it does have 3 inch lifts I'm told. I didn't know that would make it ride rougher. It looks like the tires wouldn't even fit in the wheelbase without them though. Thanks for the comments, its' very helpful to have something to compare to in terms of how it rides, sounds etc.

    I'm clear on the muffler and sagging doors. Yes the door sills are totally rusted. I guess on the suspension problem I'm either looking at removing the lifts or shocks?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

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    The roughness of the ride is going to come more from your leaf springs than your shocks. If it's got any sort of suspension lift, then you've probably got stiffer springs to support it. No real good way to fix that other than get softer riding springs, and they're somewhat spendy. Skyjacker soft ride springs are 750 for 4 inch lift, and 700 for 2 inch, I believe.

  6. #6

    Default loose steering

    i had a mechanic look at the steering today. they said the steering coupler was loose and might be the problem. they will replace it for an hour of labor but of course don't have the part for this model (1980 scout). does this sound like a possibility? it seemed to be a boot jacket type rubber seal fitted over the joint where the steering connected to the axle? I looked some online and saw some similar parts, would this be called a rag joint? I can take a photo if anyone us inclined to help me, thanks for any replies or followup questions.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff.hunt View Post
    i had a mechanic look at the steering today. they said the steering coupler was loose and might be the problem. they will replace it for an hour of labor but of course don't have the part for this model (1980 scout). does this sound like a possibility? it seemed to be a boot jacket type rubber seal fitted over the joint where the steering connected to the axle? I looked some online and saw some similar parts, would this be called a rag joint? I can take a photo if anyone us inclined to help me, thanks for any replies or followup questions.
    The rag joint is a common part. It runs about 8 bucks at the auto parts store (last time I checked) and takes about 20 minutes to replace.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  8. #8

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    are you able to post a link for that part? I am looking at scout parts .com and see mostly assemblies I think that might include the rag joint? These run upwards of $200 so must not be the part you mentioned?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

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    The rag joint is this....

    And Scout Parts is always extremely expensive. If you can help it, always try to get parts from a parts store before going to a "specialist" dealer like them. I personally prefer Super Scouts.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10

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    thx for replies. I had a mechanic look at the exhaust and muffler and they said its not leaking, so thats good, but the fume are incredibly bad in the cab. the seal is not great obviously on the doors, or back hatch. i thought maybe it was recirculating thru the backhatch, but it happens even at low speeds or idling. the mechanic did point some small blockback exhaust I think it was called beneath the engine exiting through a tube, so maybe I simply have cracks in my floor. I am going to try sealing it with garbage bags under mats as a test, and same for read hatch. Am I missing anything else that could be causing this? I closed the vents in the dash as well.

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