Results 1 to 2 of 2

Thread: body work on a 1980 IH Scout

  1. #1

    Default body work on a 1980 IH Scout

    I am going to have an auto body guy give an estimate on fixing the floors, rocker panel, and maybe a few rust holes so I can paint it. Is the procedure to cut the floor out and replace with sheet metal? the rocker panels are very rusted, and a couple holes on the lower door and rear fender. the whole thing was primered before I got it, so presumably thin rust in some other spots as well.

    besides painting it, the functional reason for fixing the floor is the fumes are bad, and right now have garbage bags under mats which helps alot.

    was also told the mounting points where the frame attaches to the body are rusty, in fact licenses plates are used there as washers and extra reinforcement between the bolts, like a sandwich with the floor between two license plates and then bolted together.

    the last aspect of the repair work is how gut churning the suspension is, the truck has a 3 inch lift, is this what makes it so unforgiving when you drive over tracks or hit a pothole? If they lift th truck to work on it should I take these out? Or is there something else I should look at it to make it ride a little smoother? (I'm told shocks aren't the issue)

    So again, my goal is to for not alot of money get it painted , fix the holes in the floor and rocker panels which wi9ll help the doors close I think, and make it ride better. Thanks for any advice

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Hurlburt Field, FL


    The floors are gonna cost about 200.00 (give or take) a side to get the parts. Unless you have some spare sheet metal, then you can make everything but the front body mounts and outer rocker panels pretty easily.

    If you end up cutting them out and not the body shop (I always did the work myself, it's not that hard), make sure you line up the front where the door hinges are with the back where the door latch is. All of the front support for the body comes from the floors, so the front will sag pretty badly when you cut the floors out. You'll have to find a way that works for you to lift it back up when you weld everything back together. I had the top off of mine when I did it, and used an engine hoist and ratchet strap to lift up from the transmission inspection panel. I've also used a floor jack in the past to lift where the front fender is, but I think the engine hoist worked better.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts