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Thread: Scout II Alternator Problems (17 volt output)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    3

    Default Scout II Alternator Problems (17 volt output)

    First, hello everyone. I am new here and hope you can help me with a problem I am having with my 73 Scout II. This forum looks like a great resource. Thanks in advance.

    I am in the middle of reassembling my Scout after replacing the rusty old tub with a Kentrol fibreglass model. It's now mainly back together, and it actually runs! However, my joy at having a running Scout is dampened because the alternator belt is squeeking and won't stop. I tried tightening it, but it was already pretty taught. A friend suggested maybe the battery was really low and the alternator was under a big load. I didn't think this could be the case since I had just replaced the battery. I measured the voltage across the battery with the engine off and it was 13+ volts. However, with the engine running it was 17! So, he guessed the voltage regulator is shot. However, I have no idea where its located (on the alternator somewhere?) or how to diagnose. Any suggestions would be appreciated. BTW, I replaced the alternator several years ago with a rebuilt one and potentially this has been the case since then--could be a wiring problem??? I'm at a loss.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Mont Belvieu Texas
    Posts
    53

    Default

    I know in my 1978 the voltage regulator is part of the alternator. Mine was surging and I replaced it last year. I don't know if yours is the same.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    3

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    Did you replace the voltage regulator or the whole alternator? I can't seem to find much info on voltage regulators... I can buy a whole new alternator for about $60...but I want to make sure that's the problem first...

  4. #4

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    ---Sounds like the regulator is bad.

    ---Take it to a rebuilder and get yourself a professional rebuild for about $30-$40 rather than a mass production rebuild for that $80... if they ask for your core, it is not "new". Might have 100% new parts, but only rebuilds require your core as an exchange. A reputable local rebuilder will most likely use a hot tank to wash the components where as a mass production rebuild company like NAPCO (who's in Michigan & rebuilds for Cardone), where they bead blast the housings and don't check for clearances etc. after removing the material.

    ---While there he can up the amperage if you want, but the absolute* max for a 10-SI is 97A IIRC, anything over that and there's inadequate cooling. Have to step up to a 12-SI for more than 97A. Also, I would only do this if you have gone with a newer, higher rating ammeter and new wiring. New wiring with a Voltmeter and no worries, but I prefer an ammeter, so I kept one.

    ---It's possible the brown wire with the white stripe, coming off the alternator's two-terminal plug, has a short in it and the alternator is stuck on full field. ENGINE OFF. Disconnect the wire from the quick connect (no need to disconnect it from the alternator) and get a reading with an Ohm meter, to the terminal on the alternator (#2 terminal IIRC, #1 circuit). The wire should have 10 ohms resistance... and if going by IH's notes, 'should not be altered'... so, it's 60" long from alternator to connector, and then 18 gauge from connector to fuse panel.
    ---Thank you,
    -T.R.E.Jr. (Fortiter Et Recte & Soyez Sage)

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Mont Belvieu Texas
    Posts
    53

    Default

    I purchase mine from O'Reilly and it came with a life time warrenty. I also had problems like Thomas stated with the wire but that was mostly due to the connector was worn. I was able to cut them off and replace them and all is well.

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