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Thread: 75 scout will not start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    8

    Default 75 scout will not start

    Hi all! I have encountered an issue that I have no explanation for. A week ago my scout stalled, I could not get it started and ended up towing it home. Before going into what I have done so far to fix it, I'll give you a little background. I completely rewired it 6 years ago with a aftermarket wiring harness from painless wiring. The following year I rebuilt the 345 and replaced the intake and carb with a 392 - 4 brl. Its been running strong since then with no issues.

    Now the problem at hand. I was getting intermittent spark at the plugs and thought that the control module might of gone out so I purchased a new one, put it in and it started up right away but it ran really rough. So I checked the timing and air gap for the magnetic pickup, both were good to go. Tried to start it again and nothing not even a sputter. I then tested the coil and the resistance was a little high on both the primary and secondary windings so I went and got a new one, put it in and ..... nothing. On the off chance that the cap or rotor were bad I replaced those as well...still nothing.

    So here I am at a loss for what the problem could be. I have spark, compression and fuel, but it just will not run, not even on starting fluid. I am at a loss here and am hoping that someone might be able to shed some light on the situation.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    29

    Default

    If it won't fire even with starting fluid I don't think you are getting any spark at all. Is it the holley distributor with gold box? Maybe double check your connections and fuses. Have you checked to see if you have 12 volts at the coil on cranking? Its also possible your new part is bad.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 392blue View Post
    If it won't fire even with starting fluid I don't think you are getting any spark at all. Is it the holley distributor with gold box? Maybe double check your connections and fuses. Have you checked to see if you have 12 volts at the coil on cranking? Its also possible your new part is bad.
    By installing the painless kit, he's eliminated the Goldbox all together.
    Are you running a DUI distributor or a points style?
    How do you know for a fact that you have spark?
    '71 Basterd Scout 2
    with a 258 from a '73 CJ5
    Intake manifold with NHRA markings....go figure

    "Its (scout) four-wheel-drive capabilities are equal to anything this side of full tracks"

    David H. Petraeus for President 2012

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    8

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    Well it’s just the way things go but after posting the question I took a look at a couple more things and presto I got it started. So thanks for the input and here’s the scoop with answers to your questions as well as the solution.

    1) Is there spark? Yes I have an inline tester that shows a visual spark when firing.

    2) 12v at the coil? This was a little low, but I am chalking that up to the battery being a rundown and overworked trying to start it so many times. At its low point it was only 10v.

    3) Yes I do have the gold box (actually 2 since I thought the firs one I bought was bad). The painless harness does not replace this unless you choose to wire it that way and change out the distributor.

    The problem:
    While messing around trying to get it running before changing parts I would pump the gas here and there as I normally would to set the choke. This apparently caused a flooded condition (expected). So I would let it set for a day before going at it again. I was assuming that the fuel would eventually evaporate and I would be back to dry conditions. Not the case, since the cylinders and plugs are in a closed environment the fuel never really dissipated, so each time I was going through the motions more fuel accumulated thus continuing the flooded condition and negating the effects of the ether as well. I started pulling plugs and sure enough they were pretty wet (all of them). Now I was getting somewhere. Rather than cleaning, drying and reusing them, I picked up 8 new ones (the old ones were probably fouled at this point). I then cranked the motor off and on for about 20 minutes to remove any fuel build up in the cylinders, put in the new plugs, turned it over and wham it started right up.

    Lesson here – Never assume anything!

    One thing to note should anyone else run into this issue. Don’t forget to change the oil. I found that when I pulled the dipstick all I could smell was fuel and the oil was thinned quite a bit.

    Again thanks for the quick responses and assistance.

    Shawn

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by okkool77 View Post
    By installing the painless kit, he's eliminated the Goldbox all together...
    ---As stated by the postee, no wiring system to date eliminates the ignition module for the Holley External Electronic Ignition (AKA Gold Box). If someone talked him into wiring the Holley Gold Box dizzy up without the box, I don't think it would live long at all and if it did, that would be my first guess as to why it died and won't start again.

    ---Hope you didn't pay $80-$100ea for them. They can be had for $50 (special thanks to J. Glancy for helping bring them back [record time of maybe 5 days?] into production). Make sure all your grounds are good and that the switch is never left in the run position without the engine running. That ignition is fantastic, no matter what hype you hear about "Gold Boxes".

    ---Also, don't throw your old boxes out.
    ---Thank you,
    -T.R.E.Jr. (Fortiter Et Recte & Soyez Sage)

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    8

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    Been sometime since I updated this, but although I have it running, I am still fighting an issue with the timing. From the time I started having a problem with getting it started and running I have noticed that the timing mark, which used to be very stable now wanders +/- 5 degrees. The truck still runs and drives for the most part, but tends to hesitate under load from about 1800 - 3200 rpms. After that it revs solid until the end of the power band. Any thoughts??

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

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    Quote Originally Posted by smartin View Post
    Been sometime since I updated this, but although I have it running, I am still fighting an issue with the timing. From the time I started having a problem with getting it started and running I have noticed that the timing mark, which used to be very stable now wanders +/- 5 degrees. The truck still runs and drives for the most part, but tends to hesitate under load from about 1800 - 3200 rpms. After that it revs solid until the end of the power band. Any thoughts??
    Block off the vacuum advance and try it again. Sounds like maybe you have a small crack in the diaphram.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Longmont, CO
    Posts
    8

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    Should this be the case what are the options for repairing it? Other than the crank this is the only component that was reused when I rebuilt the motor I could not find the parts for it or the other options were too pricey to go along with the build. Now that its been a few years it may be different.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

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    Quote Originally Posted by smartin View Post
    Should this be the case what are the options for repairing it? Other than the crank this is the only component that was reused when I rebuilt the motor I could not find the parts for it or the other options were too pricey to go along with the build. Now that its been a few years it may be different.
    There are vacuum advances for the distributors out there. Sometimes the plunger is too long, or the hole is in the wrong place, and a little bit of dremel tool action is required. There are always complete distributors for sale on e-bay and sites like this.

    One thing at a time, though. Let's figure this out. You'll learn where the cheap parts are by being part of the community.

    Rocky Mountain IH Rendezvous is in Fairplay at the end of the month, two weeks from now. You really, really don't want to miss it, scout running or not. Let's try to get it running for now, though.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

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