Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Sputtering/dying from a dead stop. Help!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    69

    Default Sputtering/dying from a dead stop. Help!

    Ok so I've mentioned I have the 74 Scout with the 4.2L 258 IL6. I was having some problems taking off from a dead stop. Initially I thought it was the aquarium hoses that were used for vacuum lines. Replaced those and still have the issue.

    Then I thought it was an issue of the truck not being warmed up enough. That was kind of working for awhile. Today was really cold and I had a LOT of problem with her sputtering or completely dying at an intersection.

    Now once I get her going she runs like a champ. Every now and then I'll lose some power but for the most part I have no issues. Sunday I took her out on a 70mile off-road trip and no issues. She starts up right away everytime no issues.

    So now I'm trying to figure out what may be causing this.

    One guy mentioned to me at a car store that it's probably the fact I have the 1bbl carb on there. Would switching to the Motorcraft 2100 2bbl help?

    Another thought is the timing is off. I would think if it was off I wouldn't be able to start it at all. I've had to clean out the distributor the past 2 days from water getting in. Couldn't resist the mud puddles Distributor looks good and clean, rather new.

    What else should I be looking at?

    I was told to that there is a fuel injection kit that I could put on, would that help?

    It's really frustrating because like I said once I get past the intersection she runs fine. Also I bought this truck for the winter here in Colorado since my other vehicle isn't a 4x4.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default

    A 40 some odd year old carb is often the culprit. If it only does it when taking off it sounds like a bad accelerator pump. 2 barrel will most likely not effect take off until it is rolling. I believe my weber only has one accelerator pump. So only the first barrel shoots the initial burst of gas. A 2bl will give you more power though. Fuel injection will give more power and better steep angle climbing. A carb rebuild would be the cheapest option, then the 2bl upgrade and finally fuel injection.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    69

    Default

    So carb replacement/rebuild is the first thing I should go for?

    The guy I talked with who mentioned switching said once he did he never had any problems with it.

    I may go with a new one since I have never rebuilt a carb before.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    eastern washington state
    Posts
    427

    Default Hey Rascus

    still having carb problems see if you can find a mid 70's carb amc product in the wrecking yard as long as it is a 258 it should fit just linkage might be a mess. good luck let me know

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default

    You should have a 1940 holley on that. Your cheapest route would be to buy a rebuild kit from NAPA and http://www.themotorbookstore.com/holcarman.html. If all else fails you learned a little about carbs.

    The 1940 was a common carb. Still able to get remanufactured ones but they are high. http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/pa...ource=googleps part number is same at NAPA.

    Trans-Dapt makes a 2barrel carb to 1 barrel manifold adapter. A 2 barrel will give you more power, better throttle response and better fuel economy if properly jetted. I like holley 5200 weber 32/36 clones. You would have to rejet since this is for a pinto/mustang2 4 cyl. Also need a throttle cable/gas pedal combo since they twist clock wise and yours should twist counter clock wise to deliver fuel. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/aca...asp?catcode=48 My total was $180 with a cleaner and mr. gasket pedal/throttle cable bought at a different source. This is not a complete kit and you would have to fab up something to attach the cable to and use parts off of the 1940 to hook the cable to the weber.

    Sorry don't know anything about regular 2 barrels. The webers are the closest to fuel injected performance so I never fooled with a standard 2 barrel. If you want a different 2 barrel maybe someone else can suggest one that bolts up without modification. The 1 barrel stock is fine though. The only reason for 2 bl is a performance increase.
    Last edited by Bugflipper; 10-28-2009 at 08:52 PM.

  6. #6

    Default

    ---The Holley 1940 has done fine for 30+ years and it would be hard to imagine that it left the lot running poorly as you describe. I say to tell the GM mechanics to stop telling you what to change and unless you want a different carburetor, rebuild the one you have carefully using the book from Smokey Unich mentioned previously and Genuine Holley Parts. Settle for nothing* else, not even if you know your parts house counter-monkey has always been right.

    ---Bein' a lowlander at altitude of 400'-600', I don't see any gain from the overly-expensive Holley Projection, nor did I have any problems with fuel running from MI to AL and playing in the different altitudes along the way (I run Holley 2300s). I just have no use for it and probably wouldn't use it unless it was on a MOPAR 400, to which carburetion could never be corrected.

    http://www.holley.com/data/Catalogs/Reman/199.pdf

    ---If there's no signs of fuel leaks or vacuum leaks, I would think maybe you just got some water in your tank... or maybe even something simple like pinched a line between the body and frame when you jumped a grade or found the bottom of the puddle. Maybe you got lucky and cracked a head by splashing that cool water on a cast iron block... highly unlikely and I hope not, but ehhhh...

    ---Go around the engine bay praying some hair spray or carb cleaner, while listening to the engine for RPM changes. If you notice a change, I would say a vacuum leak. Earl up (lightly) the advance weighs, suck on the advance line and place your tongue on the end. It should hold vacuum just as the EGR and any other diaphragm would.

    ---I highly suggest the service manuals if you plan on having a happy marriage between you and your IH. Chiltons/Haynes are junk and wouldn't wipe... nm , Motor/Mitchell are nice addition to the library (motor being for beginners IMHO), but nothing beats the IH/International/Navistar manuals. Stay away from the GM mechanics too.

    edit: http://www.holley.com/3-667.asp is the Holley P/N for your carb if you're due/over-due for a rebuild.
    Last edited by Thomas; 10-28-2009 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Added Holley Kit P/N
    ---Thank you,
    -T.R.E.Jr. (Fortiter Et Recte & Soyez Sage)

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =StoneThrower
    53 Farmall H=Heinz
    49 Plymouth Spcl. Dlx. 4-Door Sedan=Papapalooza
    49 IH fridge=unnamed

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =unnamed

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =unnamed

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Interior Alaska
    Posts
    227

    Default Rebuild the carb

    I have to recommend that you rebuild the carb. Could be a stuck float or a bad o-ring. NAPA has the right kits, take the carb in with ya, order the kit (as most stores don't have it in stock) and pickup the Holley Carb Rebuild book. Also get a can of carb cleaner & the paint bucket parts washer (if you don't have a washer setup) to allow you to soak the body overnight.

    I did this on my '74; no carb experience what-so-ever & I had it torn down in about 15 minutes, soaked it overnight and put back together in 30 (after scrubbing) with all new parts, adjusted, etc... Worked great while I waited for the new carb to arrive.

    It now sits on the shelf as a spare as I did the Weber conversion to a 32/36 for additional power when I'm plowing. The one barrel was a pain to adjust at -50*F... BUT I know I have a spare should I need to drop it in the rig.

    Bill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    It sounds like the engine runs fine once you get it warmed up a little.

    I hate to sound like a moron here, but did you adjust the choke for the cold season? If it runs fine after the first few minutes, chances are near certainty that you have choke issues. Carb'd engines are cold blooded. You have to have the mixture just rich enough to allow the engine to run, and that's at all temperatures. As things warm up, the engine can run leaner, less energy required to turn it. Trouble is, there's always a happy medium, and it varies greatly with outside temperature on a cold engine.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    eastern washington state
    Posts
    427

    Default

    hey don't be bad mouthing people just trying to help. for the record i have own IH since i was driving learned to drive a stick with a 68 1/2 ton international

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john breeze View Post
    hey don't be bad mouthing people just trying to help. for the record i have own IH since i was driving learned to drive a stick with a 68 1/2 ton international
    ---If it was directed at me; Yes, I speak boldly about GM mechanics simply because I can and I have much to back what I say, off the net. When I say be weary, stay away or tell that GM mechanic to get back, I say it for a reason. Now, either people who ask for help can listen and purchase a the service manual(s) so they can learn these trucks are different, or they can ignore my warnings and learn the hard way. AFAIC, this is an IH site and as long as I don't say, which I never would, "These IH engines are junk and I need xxxxxxx muscle under the hood", I guess there's nothing anyone can be upset about.

    ---If it was directed at Allen E., I don't believe when he said "I hate to sound like a moron here..." (even if he could sound like a moron to begin with), that he meant "here" per say, meaning "amongst the people here". This is an IH Re-Blooded site and I don't think you could get that from him even if you deserved it... same with me, I prefer to ignore what seems like an attack when it's by someone in the family/community.

    ---Now, if the mechanic is that good, tell him to register and help save a dying breed... but he won't help by swapping out the Holley carbs for motorcraft/etc., or the Motorola/Bosch for Delco. IMHO, one can help without insisting the part be replaced until it is known the part is faulty and can't be rebuilt.
    ---Thank you,
    -T.R.E.Jr. (Fortiter Et Recte & Soyez Sage)

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =StoneThrower
    53 Farmall H=Heinz
    49 Plymouth Spcl. Dlx. 4-Door Sedan=Papapalooza
    49 IH fridge=unnamed

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =unnamed

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    =unnamed

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •