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Thread: interchangable parts

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb interchangable parts

    1970 scout 800a

    what parts are interchangable on the scout 800a, body parts in particular...same would be for disc brakes and drive train and axles...i guess anything?

    thanks

  2. #2
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    Can you give us a little bit more information? What are you wanting to swap the parts with?
    '71 Basterd Scout 2
    with a 258 from a '73 CJ5
    Intake manifold with NHRA markings....go figure

    "Its (scout) four-wheel-drive capabilities are equal to anything this side of full tracks"

    David H. Petraeus for President 2012

  3. #3
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    Yeah i wasn't sure what he meant exactly. Either.. what body panels are removable vs what is welded/part of bed? Or like did you mean to put another vehicle model/year u wanted to know if they are interchangeable?
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  4. #4
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    Default parts...

    are the end caps of the scout have to be 1970 or can they be from a different model, or say something from a ford or chevy of some would fit on the end? or a single gas tank in the rear between the frame rails, seats i guess are anything you can throw in, since mine came with seats from a 99' suburban...how about windshield wipers and arm and or getting rid of the vacuum motors for the wipers and going electrical?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodge97 View Post
    are the end caps of the scout have to be 1970 or can they be from a different model, or say something from a ford or chevy of some would fit on the end? or a single gas tank in the rear between the frame rails, seats i guess are anything you can throw in, since mine came with seats from a 99' suburban...how about windshield wipers and arm and or getting rid of the vacuum motors for the wipers and going electrical?
    End caps from 1961-71 will work. No other vehicle used them. Fiberglass replacement caps are available from Kentrol for about 150 each which is better than the 300 that a lot of folks want to get for NOS metal. If you have difficulty with getting your head around the install I'll give you my take if you go that route.

    I am having a center tank fabricated that would not interfere with the pumpkin, but the filler neck routing has been a pain. One big tank in the back is cheaper than replacing with 2x poly side tanks with senders and guage, straps and hardware, new stock rubber filler necks etc etc. You should expect to budget over 800 for a double poly install with new everything plus your time vs under 500 for the center tank setup. Also, the center tank will have more capacity than both saddle tanks combined.

    I am using highback buckets out of a Ford Explorer including the 2/3 rear bench. I gave $75 for both fronts and the rear set. The 2/3 seat fits between the wheel wells, but a new base is necessary. They are perfect for my purpose but I have had to fabricate an adapter plate for them and cannibalize a driver's seat box and a set of sliders from another 800 to make the passenger side bucket work. This is the perfect opportunity to relocate the seat sliders back an inch or so to give your knees and elbows some room. Wiper arms are available used everywhere but they always need a new tension spring to keep them tight to the windshield.

    Electric wiper conversion is an upgrade that a bunch have accomplished but it is pricey. Only a low-profile wiper motor will fit under the dash and it isn't easy to synchronize the wiper motors. That may not be an issue for you as the vacuum wipers are impossible to synchronize too. I'll try to find the link for the wiper conversion. I think you would need to budget about $250 for that swap. Overhead boat electric wipers that will mimic the Scout 80 setup would cost about 1/2 of that. I looks a little funny but they do work and do not slow down under accelleration. As mentioned in another thread, you could get an electric vacuum pump out of a wrecked diesel truck. I have never done it but I would like to. A friend recently asked a rhetorical question about the vacuum specs as he surmised it might over vacuum the system leading to line collapse. I doubt it but it is something to look into.

  6. #6
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    Default parts?

    is easier to replace the fuel sending unit on the drivers side and replace the filler neck which by the way looks like i can replace with thick rubber tubing?
    or use this one, which i know is to long, but could cut down to size...
    on a side note, its a 4 cyl engine, which one? were are the ID # on the block to see what it is?

    thank you
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  7. #7

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    ---Try www.wire-works.com for an electric wiper conversion. Don't know who will make new tail light pillars for the Scout 80/800s. Contact Super Scout Specialists and ask them if they know anyone. I'll only recommend companies that I have had perfect business relations with... and... I... am... having... a hard... time... not... mentioning... companies... to... stay... away... from... <passes out>

    edit:

    ---Oh wait. I have to. This just sounds so much like that old BS rumor started by GM fools, that I have to stop it before it grows... JIC. International is not a company that built trucks using parts from all other companies. International built their own truck and used some* small parts, just like all auto manufacturers would do today (E.G., Dana axles, Delco/motorola/Bosch starters/alternators/switches & GE light bulbs).


    ---Got a new one for those who want some custom body work to gain newer lights. Not sure what years I have, but I have a P/N on the back of them. I acquired some OEM lights from a Ford Ranger after I told my boss I was going to see if they'd fit my Scout II. A little cutting and bending of the sheet metal so there's something to fasten them to and seal against, and they look as if they'd work great! Just gotta flip em upside down and slap em on opposite corners.
    Last edited by Thomas; 11-05-2009 at 06:38 AM.
    ---Thank you,
    -T.R.E.Jr. (Fortiter Et Recte & Soyez Sage)

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  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Well put , we all know who you are talking about :P you don't even have to say it haha
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Maryland
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodge97 View Post
    is easier to replace the fuel sending unit on the drivers side and replace the filler neck which by the way looks like i can replace with thick rubber tubing?
    or use this one, which i know is to long, but could cut down to size...
    on a side note, its a 4 cyl engine, which one? were are the ID # on the block to see what it is?

    thank you
    Have you had the tank out and open? Have you verified the sender is bad? If you need to replace it, the one that is sold for the poly tanks is a direct replacement but they are pricey.

    The replacement stock filler is about $75. It has the vent tube fused/glued into it, and they come in right/left side examples. Brendan Barnes sells a steel filler pipe/flange for about $25 each. You would need to do your own vent and supply your own filler pipe. You cannot use "thick rubber tubing". You need to use marine grade fuel hose which is also very expensive but 1 foot can do both sides for about $20-25. I think it is the way to go if you want to keep stock tanks. I don't know what that thing is in the picture, but it isn't a stock Scout item.

    Your engine should be a 196 CID engine in Scout 800 configuration if it is original to your 1970. It is substantially different from a Scout II 196 CID engine, enough to make a difference when sourcing parts. There is a flat boss on the driver's side/front of the block near the motor mount with the engine ID stamped onto it but it might be painted over or covered in crud.

  10. #10
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    spokane wa
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    Default fuel tank?

    is there a conversion tank for the back (full tank) rather than saddle tanks? for example, i found a travelall 1110 side tank that is complete, will that fit into the frame in the rear or is there another car/truck that i can get one from and put in?

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