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Thread: 345 Rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
    Posts
    283

    Default 345 Rebuild

    I am going to start the slow slow process of rebuilding a 345 i got as a project, (not sure what i will put it in) and was wondering what suggestions people have..


    1. Does anyone know of any nice, simple, easy to follow play by play rebuild threads of 345's?
    2. What can i do to increase the power?
    3. Where is a good place to get a rebuild kit, or do i have to get it in pieces


    Ill get some pics of the engine asap and put them up here too. Ive already pulled it apart pretty good.
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    The factory manual is your friend here. Spend the money.

    Northern Auto Parts has the best deals on rebuild kits for 345s. Note that they list "except scout." This is because the scout oil pumps are unique and no longer available. You will have to rebuild one for use in a scout.

    Pay special attention to the pistons. Some are destroked .020. Some are not. 19 times out of 20, you do not want destroked pistons. The IH blocks are so hard that you rarely have to take more than .006 off the heads, and nothing off the blocks.

    Having said that: The replacement composite gaskets are .043 and the original steel gaskets are .018. Even without the destroked pistons, you will likely need to drop .025 to .050 off the block. You can go to .100 total before the pushrods are too long.

    This is all from memory. This rebuild requires the help of a good machine shop. These are measurements, not stone carved truths, and every engine will be different.

    304 and 345 use the same pistons. The flat top pistons match with flat top heads. The contoured pistons match with contoured heads. You can not successfully interchange them because the combustion chambers are different. If you swap heads, make sure you buy pistons that match the heads.

    Stay somewhat close to a stock cam grind. The valve train is the weak link on an SV engine.

    The cam bearings are extremely important. The alignment of the cam bearings is the most crucial thing. There are oil holes. They must line up perfectly. The bearings must be installed perfectly.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
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    Default

    Ha ha yeah funny you should mention that, i just ordered one actually from BCB a couple days ago. Figured that would help a lot so i sprung the $

    I'm hoping to use the same heads.. so that shouldn't be a problem (hopefully)

    So what does rebuilding the Oil pump consist of..?



    Got a few pics up
    Attached Images Attached Images
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
    Posts
    283

    Default

    So yeah looking at that .. Id say my torque converter is busted. Any idea how that happened? And do i have to take the whole flywheel off or what


    Is the block supposed to have those 2 holes.? and the one by the distributor in the top left?

    (never taken apart an IH engine)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
    Posts
    283

    Default

    Forgot the pic hah
    Attached Images Attached Images
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Hurlburt Field, FL
    Posts
    495

    Default

    IIRC, the holes are supposed to be there. They look like they've been punched or broken out, but it's supposed to be that way, for oil drainage. Don't remember exactly why they look broken though.

    And yes, your torque converter is definitely shot. No, you should not have to take off your flywheel to get to it; you should be able to get to the 4 bolts holding it on, one at a time, at the very bottom by rotating the flywheel. Takes a long time to do it, but that's the only way I know of to get it off. The flywheel bolts won't let you take it off unless the torque converter is gone anyway.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, California
    Posts
    283

    Default

    Well im glad the holes are supposed to be there ha ha, i figured as much they just didn't look very.. planned lol looks like they just Brooke one day. And i guess ill start taking off the torque converter next then when i get home from work

    what should i be looking for (problem wise) as i take it apart?
    -72 Scout2 - SBC350 with RV camshaft, 4 speed manual Trans, D20 xfer case with CV drive shafts.
    -Dana 44 Detroit locker rear.
    -Dana 44 (out of a 75) Rebuilt /w trutrac limited slip frnt



    ~Conquest is not in our principles. It is inconsistent with our government.

    ~T.J.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Aiken, SC
    Posts
    2,423

    Default

    look for unusual wear on the crank. It's probably okay, because they tend to last. If it looks good, the machinist can check the connecting rods for stretch, etc. when he mic's out the crank, checks the heads and block for cracks, etc.

    One thing I would mention is that you want to use stock IH valve seals. They leak. They are supposed to leak. That gives you a slight puff of smoke when you fire up the engine. This makes the engine last a very long time. Resist the suggestion to use "better" valve seals.

    You will also need to check your pushrods and your valve train. Much of this work has to be done by a machinist because it's all about measuring play and clearances.

    You can get .060 overbore pistons and .020 undersized rod and main bearings. Plan your compression ratio, shoot for about 8.8- 9.0 : 1. I would not go any higher. I think stock is about 8.7:1. If you go too high, you will need to use higher octane fuel and then you may as well open up the heads for higher flow.

    If you have a smog pump era engine, you can install plugs in the holes and then grind the exhaust ports open for better flow, and can also port match the exhaust ports to the exhaust manifold. Leave the intake side alone, it's too big already, even if you buy an aluminum intake manifold from IH Only. If you don't plan to run headers or raise the rpm range significantly, light port matching is more than enough. The IH engine makes its low end torque by swirling the air at low rpm.
    Allan E.
    Curmudgeon Extraordinaire
    Charter Member, Old Hippie IH Club
    Old fashioned binder freak

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    mississippi
    Posts
    137

    Default

    As I said in another post take plenty of pictures as you go, I wish I had. I know there's only one way for everything to go back but it really helps to have a reference. The manual is great but mine the pictures are really blurry. There is a place Alan told about called Light line of Louisiana that is great for hard to find parts. I usually get my orders the next day or so.

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