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Thread: mounting scout 800 doors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Western Washington
    Posts
    194

    Default mounting scout 800 doors

    Lots of posts this week from me. I actually have time to finish up some of the IHC projects around the house.

    I need to mount the doors on my 70 Scout 800a. I got bolts from anythingscout.com and went out to do the deed. There are no female threads on the body for the screws that go through the hinges go. Are these usually part of the body or do I need to remove the fenders and use nuts? It came with the doors already off and I am not sure how they were originally mounted but thought there would be threads on the body side.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    110

    Default

    IIRC, there should be rectangular pieces of (heat-treated?) steel, drilled and tapped for the three flat-headed bolts which go through the hinges. I haven't had a fender off in years so have forgotten what holds the pieces in place when the bolts aren't there; they might have just fallen down in the 'channel' they sit in, or the PO might have removed them, but I believe you need to remove the fender to find out.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Washington
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    20

    Default

    there is a metal belt welded into the blocks but they usually break and the blocks fall off. if they are missing in your scout, you could go to your closest HW store and purchased a 3/16 steel bar and cut it to the correct length and tap new holes in it. i worked for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Western Washington
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    Default

    Can someone please post a picture of what it should look like for me? Are we talking about just a plate with 3 threaded holes that line up with the hinge bolt pattern?

    Thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Washington
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    Default

    yup, it is as simple as that. since you probably dont have them, you will need to remove the from fender to get behind it and right on the edge of the post.

    like you are saying, just cut a piece of steal to size, tranfer the holes to the plate, tap them and install them.

    that is what i did. and since i have the fender on i can not take pic of the plates sorry.

    I think i attached correctly a picture made on paint how the plate looks like.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Western Washington
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    Default

    Thank you I will go see what they have at the hardware store for steel.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    24

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    Look close at the two hinge gussets. In between them you will see the taped plate with the strap that holds them in place. The strap holds them lose untill tightened so you can line the door.....Ron
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Western Washington
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    Default

    Great thanks for posting the picture. The strap is a good idea and will make alignment much more simple.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Washington
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    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by damnesia View Post
    Great thanks for posting the picture. The strap is a good idea and will make alignment much more simple.
    the straps are there by design. probably yours did rusted out and the blocks falled off.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    145

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    Personally, if I had to make new backing plates I would not tap them. I would just drill them to the diameter of the bolts, use longer bolts with a shoulder that went all the way through to the plate and instead use quality lock washers and nuts behind the backing plate. The screws are also available now with an allen head if you want to get away from a slotted head.

    Again, personally, I believe it is a disgrace that a new hinge does not come as a set with all new set screws and a new tapped backing plate. There are many folks who re-use them but I don't care how cheap you are or claim to be the whole mess should be thrown away and new material installed. I would then feel that the LL price of $80 per hinge was justified.

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